Since February, we have been to the doctor every 2 weeks
and
our veterinarian calls him the "Problem Child". He first
had
an upper respiratory infection that manifested itself the day
after
we purchased him. This lead to hyperglycemia and our puppy
wouldn't eat anything. For 10 days he hadn't eaten anything
until his upper respiratory infection was cleared up through
antibiotics
after 3 days. Then the only thing that we could get him to
eat was chicken which lead to allergies and our Lhasa lost almost
all of his hair. Gratefully, he is now over those problems
and has been growing 1 pound a week and the vet said he will be
25
pounds,.. Yikes, the book that we read said that a male would
reach
16-18 lbs. My sister in-law has a female Lhasa that is 5 yrs. old
and is only 6 lbs. Could he really reach 25 lbs?
The latest problem is that he has gotten what they call "Cherry
Eye".
Do you know what this is and if so, what should I do about it?
They
gave us three options 1- remove the "cherry" and have to put
drops
in the eye the rest of his life. 2- Have vet stitch it back
for $100 and hope it stays. 3- Go to an ophthalmologist and
have both eyes stitched up and guaranteed for $500. What
would
you do in this case. The vet said that the other eye will
probably
have the same problem at a future date.
The pet store is not willing to back their
guarantee.
We would never want to replace our puppy. However if this
condition
is hereditary we would want the breeder to stop breeding more
puppies
with this condition. Is this a genetic disease?
Our vet has told us he's not sure but that if we were to breed
this
dog the chances that the puppies would have cherry eye would be
about
95%. Which sounds pretty genetic to me. Our vet
recommended
not breeding him in the future. What do you know regarding
this?
Dear "Problem Child" Parents:
Your dog is not breeding material. Cherry eye and size would
disqualify him as a stud dog for anyone who is an ethical breeder who
breeds
for type and health. Besides, how do you plan to breed without a
female? No good breeder would sell you a bitch to breed to your
pet-store
dog. You would have to resort to a pet-store female, and end up
producing
some of the same problems you complain of now. YOUR VET'S
ADVICE
IS CORRECT. You should neuter this dog as soon as he is old
enough.
I would not let the vet REMOVE the cherry eye. It can be
tacked
down without removal. However any dog with cherry eye is more
likely
to develop dry eye in the future. If you want the best for the
dog,
go the ophthalmologist route.
Your real problem is that you got your dog from a pet store.
People
who breed for pet stores are puppy-mills. (Kansas and Missouri are the
leading states in the puppy-mill industry.) They breed dogs as a
cash crop like chickens. They do not care about genetic disease,
and poor results will not keep them from breeding more diseased
dogs.
This flood of genetically unfit dogs keeps vets in business and sends
their
kids to college.
Your dog is only a puppy, so you have not even BEGUN to have
problems.
I wish you well, but am saddened by the fact that you did not ask for
help
BEFORE you bought your dog. We could have sent you to a breeder
and
got you a healthy dog, and the constant advice of an expert, dedicated
breeder.
Regards, Cathy
Ms.Marley
I am a student at Ann Street middle school and my name is
Angela.
For my language class I have to prove my theories that the Lhasa Apso,
Shih tzu and Maltese are related. I would really like to hear
your
opinion on the topic so please email me at xxx .
Thank you from a dog lover, Angela
The Shih-Tzu was developed in China from Apsos sent as gifts to
the
Manchu Emperors by the rulers of Tibet as early as the 16th
century.
The Chinese liked a short-faced look, and no doubt crossed the Tibetan
dogs, which had longer noses for breathing in the high Himalayas, to
some
of their native Chinese dogs, to produce the Shih-Tzu.
The Maltese was known in Mediterranean Europe in antiquity - at
least
back into the middle ages. At that time Tibet was entirely
unknown
to the west. However, Tibet had links to the West for over two
millenia
via India, which traded around the Indian Ocean to the coasts of Arabia
and Africa. Small dogs could have been traded along these routes
and made it into the Mediterranean. It is possible that the
Maltese
is related to the Apso, but we lack direct evidence. The link
with
the Shih-Tzu is well established by historical records.
Hi! I am a first time
dog
owner and need some advice. We have a 4 month old Lhasa named Molly.
She
has a great personality and we are really pleased with her. The problem
is, we got her for some companionship for our 9 year old son and she,
for
the most part, appears to be a one person dog-----me. I can see why, as
I'm a stay at home Mom and she is always with me. My questions are will
she outgrow this a bit as she grows up? She wants me in eye shot
constantly,
follows me everywhere and is very upset if I am in a closed door room
without
her. She will play some with our son, but only if I am right in it also.
Secondly, she does fairly well on potty
training,
yet we really have to keep a good eye on her, or she will sneak off and
do her thing. Is this to be expected as a puppy thing, or should be
outgrowing
this by now? She does go to the door several times a day to go out (and
even rings a little bell with her nose so we know she is there), yet
she
will also sneak into another room right after she has been out and go,
(usually wet). Thanks for your help.
Mary Beth
Lhasas - nearly all small dogs - do not like
small
children. Small children are intimidating - their shrill voices,
unpredictable
actions and activity level are all threatening to a small dog. In a few
years, your son will be different, but then he will not be interested
in
dogs, but in girls. It is a mistake to get an animal for a child.
Usually,
by the time a child is truly old enough to take responsibility for an
animal,
he is too old to want to. It is your dog. Get used to it.
Small dogs have no voluntary control of their bladder or bowels
until
at least 5 months of age. Until that time, I would confine the pup to
an
area where accidents don't matter so much - the kitchen?
My lhasa spanky was accosted by some other
neighbors pit bull. The pit did not hurt spanky but spanky was so
tramatized
that he displaced his hip and needs a hip replacement. Very expensive
and
he has suffered so much pain through the entire experience, as i
have!!!
I wonder if i have the right to sue my neighbor for the expenses of the
surgery even though the vet i saw told me that it was bound to happen
anyway
as lashas are great candidates for bad hips . The dog did not
physically
hurt spanky, but spanky was in a kennel and trying to protect his
territory,
this would not have happend if the neighbor was taking care of his dog
properly. Please email me with your response thank you!!
Sherry,
You can sue, but you will lose. First off, Your Lhasa could not have
dislocated a hip this way unless he had a severe case of hip dysplasia.
Lhasas as a breed are NOT heavily afflicted with severe hip dysplasia.
If your vet said it was bound to happen sooner or later, then your dog
had to be almost entirely lacking hip sockets. I don't think you can
blame
this defect on the pit bull that frightened your dog. If the dog had no
physical contact with your dog, there was no trauma other than your
dog's
own agitation and physical defects to blame. You would be better off
seeking
some refund - the price of the dog - from the breeder, for selling you
a defective animal. Your vet's opinion notwithstanding, well bred
Lhasas do not have bad hips
Regards, Cathy Marley
We have a wonderful Lhasa
dog
called Leo, who is nearly twelve years old and still behaves like a
puppy.
We've been told a few times that he has heart and back problems, and
one
vet even told us that he shouldn't be let off his lead and he shouldn't
be allowed to jump up onto anything. That didn't last. He loves life
far
too much for him to be kept back (the last 'warning' we got was about
three
years ago, and he's still going strong !). We will soon be facing a
move
from UK to California, and we don't know how to handle the move with
Leo.
Will he be able to withstand a 12 hour trip, sedated in his carrier, at
his age with his heart and kidney problems?
I have a couple of suggestions. First, do not sedate the animal.
Get
him used to sleeping in his shipping crate by making it his bed for
weeks
or months before you have to leave. If he regards his crate as a safe
and
comfortable haven, you will not need to sedate him - which could be
dangerous
for an old dog. Dogs can easily sleep for 12 hours.
If you are worried about the stress of a 12 hour flight, break it
up.
Book your flight with a 24 hour (or more) stopover in New York or
Boston.
It involves paying for a hotel room as an added expense, but why not
make
a little sightseeing stop?
I have traveled with dogs in airlines many times, and never had
problems,
because the dogs were used to being transported in crates. I think they
slept the whole way, because they looked a whole lot better than I did
at the destination!
My boyfriend Jay and I are the owners of a 5
month
old Lhasa Apso puppy named KOBE. We are very interested in breeding
him.
I read that KOBE should starting the "breeding process" after he turns
1 and if not, then we should get him neutered. Is there any truth to
this?
Secondly, we are interested in purchasing a female puppy. Will
purchasing
the puppy now while KOBE is 5 months feasible, or should I wait longer
to make the transition easier for KOBE in the long run?
There is a lot to learn before you ever think of breeding. I often
ask,
"Would you drive over a high bridge when you knew that the architect
never
had any training in Engineering or Architecture?". Breeding without a
good
background in genetics and animal husbandry, and a real knowledge of
the
breed is not good for the health and welfare of the pups produced.
Please read "letter to a would-be breeder" on my website in the
articles
section. Go to some shows - (see http://www.infodog.com) - learn about
the breed. Meet and attach yourselves to a good breeder in your area
and
learn some more. This is the very best advice I can give you. Begin by
buying Carolyn Herbel's "The New Complete Lhasa Apso" -
http://www.amazon.com.
My 4 year old female Lhasa is just perfect, and we bought a new
puppy,
Lhasa, 11 weeks old and Lily just seems to really not like her, she is
moody now and avoids the little one almost 90% of the time, the little
one, Daisy, nips and chases Lily relentlessly. Will this pass? We have
given her toys play with the puppy and have lavished above and beyond
attention
to Lily, the 4 yr, old. Any tips on how to get the little one to not be
such a bother to Lily?
You also have to remember that little children can be annoying.
Most
of us, if we are honest, will admit this. Dogs are no different.
Puppies
can have very rude behavior. Your female will very likely correct
this wild pup if she is offensive. For a very interesting
perspective
on this, please read: http://www.flyingdogpress.com/sayhi.html.
Most females will only tolerate their own puppies - they really
dislike
the pups of other females. In the wild, a mother alpha wolf is the only
one in the pack allowed to have puppies. If another female has pups,
the
alpha female will most often kill them. This is nature's way of
controlling
the wolf population.
Lhasa bitches sometimes do the same. We have to be very careful to
separate them when there are two litters in the house at the same time,
or the more dominant bitch may kill the other bitch's pups.
Your older dog was the only dog for a long time. Now you brought a
strange
bitch's puppy into the house. Her instincts say "kill it!". She does
not
do that because she senses you do not want her to, but she can't help
her
attitude. When the pup is over 6 months, you may see a complete change.
Once the young one reaches puberty, she will be an adult in the older
one's
eyes, and then they can have an adult, friendly relationship. Until
then,
I would be very careful about leaving them alone together.
I am the owner of two Lhasa girls...Maisie I
adopted
from my local animal control officer and she is a perfect example of
the
Tibetan model. She's about three years old, grey, hard straight coat,
beautiful
head. My puppy, who is just about a year old, Gigi, was a birthday gift
my from my husband. I'm currently training them to mind the Invisible
Fence.
So far it's going well. Do you have any information about how Lhasas as
a breed do with Invisible Fence? The trainers the company sends seem to
be more familiar with Labradors and Golden Retrievers and don't seem to
know exactly how to deal with the temperment of these smart little dogs.
My only experience was with a "Scat-Mat". This is a mat that
delivers
a small static electric shock when the dog steps on it. My daughter
used
it to keep her Rottweiler out of the living room. My Lhasa looked at
it,
put her paw on it, got the shock, looked at it again, and jumped over
it.
It took her exactly 5 seconds to figure out how to defeat the Scat-Mat.
I don't know how an invisible fence works, but I do not believe
anything
short of a real fence will contain a Lhasa. They are thinking dogs, and
will figure out a way of doing what they want to. Regards, Cathy
We have a scruffy, wonderful nine year old Lhasa whose groomer
has
moved. How do we find out how to groom her? How often to bathe, brush,
demat, comb, etc. She is strictly a pet but the smartest little bundle
we've ever had. Thank you, in advance, for your time and cooperation.
Sincerely, Sandra Ross E-Mail SRoss1971@worldnet.att.com
Dear Sandra,
Your question can't be answered without knowing the type of coat your
dog has. Lhasa coats go from silky to woolly to cottony to correct,
hard
human-like hair. A bath once a week will keep the hair clean and as
manageable
as possible. Creme rinse is always used to smooth the hair, then the
hair
is brushed and combed under a hair-dryer (you can rig a draftsman's
lamp
arm to a hand dryer so you don't have to waste a hand holding it). With
a pinbrush or slicker brush and comb, you groom until the mats are out,
and the hair lies smoothly. If you need detailed advice, take the dog
to
another groomer, who will allow you to watch her groom your dog. Then
duplicate
her performance at home.
Ed: If anyone wishes to help Sandra with detailed instructions,
I'm sure she would be grateful for the info.
My significant other and I live in Los Angeles, Calif. and have
been having serious discussions about acquiring a Lhasa Apso puppy. We
are professionals in our 40's and 50's with no children and no other
pets.
I do not want to purchase from a pet store or from out of state
breeders
that advertise (i worry about them being puppy mills)
We are most interested in obtaining a puppy that has
demonstrated
pedigree and assume that this is the best indicator of disposition and
adherence to the breed's physical standards. We are not looking to be
professional
dog show people but i feel i could trust a breeder who adhere's to the
professional standard rather than breeding the dog for the puppy mill.
Again, quality disposition and good health are our primary goals.
Your web site has been extremely informative. I notice you are
in
favor of one particular line, I am curious as to what physical
attributes
we should look for in the puppy we eventually obtain so as not to
regret
our decision.
Melanie L. Keller usbwest@earthlink.net
Dear Melanie,
You are quite correct in seeking your puppy from experienced breeders
who breed to the standard. I wish I could give you the formula for
picking
the perfect puppy, but It is very difficult to look for physical
attributes
in puppies - especially young ones. I think you have to look at the
parents
rather than the puppy. I favor a particular line because In my opinion
it seems to carry the heaviest helping of the genes which produce a dog
capable of surviving in Tibet. It has what we call "type" - the
original
type of the Lhasa Apso. But many other bloodlines are also
capable
of producing correct type.
It is important to see as many relatives of the prospective puppy
as
possible - especially the older ones. The older ones - 7 to 10 years -
should have all their teeth. This indicates both good genes and good
care
by the breeder. They should have clear eyes - no cataracts, no corneal
scarring, no excessive tearing or protruding third eyelid. They should
be obviously sound, capable of running and jumping with ease. They
should
have proper coats, not soft, cottony or woolly, but hard and straight
like
human hair. Their skins should be clean, they should not be scratching
or show other evidence of skin problems.
The puppy itself should be clean and plump. By 8 weeks, it should
be
running and playing actively, and have good coordination and a high
energy
level. Eyes and ears should be clear and clean.
CM
We have a six month old male Lhasa. We have to make a decision
soon.
Should we breed him or have him neutered? He can be fully registered
and
has great character. Light tan with beautiful black markings on face
and
tail. We are not experts, but we think he's a good looking guy.
Problem:
at six months, he weighs 22 pounds! Would breeders be interested in
breeding
to a larger dog? We would prefer to neuter but don't want to take him
out
of the gene pool if his size would be beneficial to the breed. Your
comments
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Edwin J. Noonan
Dear Edwin,
Breeders are very choosey about the males they use to perpetuate the
breed. Our decisions are based on a number of considerations:
1. The Breeder.
a. Has the breeder of that dog had a long
record as a breeder of exceptional dogs?
b. How does he/she go about selecting dogs
to be bred?
c. Can I visit this breeder and go over a
number of representative dogs from the same family?
2. The Dog.
a. Is he the epitome of the breed as I see
it? Most breeders want a male that weighs from 15 to 18 lbs, and
stands from 10 to 11 inches at the top of the shoulder. We do not want
a massive, heavy boned dog, an atypically large dog, or a very fine,
toyish
dog.
b. Does he have the correct temperament?
c. Does he have the correct movement?
d. Does he have a good quality, fast growing,
easily groomed coat?
e. Is his conformation ideal in all respects?
f. Has this dog demonstrated his ability
to produce excellent puppies?
3. The Pedigree.
a. Is that pedigree consonant with the
pedigree
of my bitch? Some families have characteristics that I do not want in
my
dogs. Some families have characteristics that my bitch lacks.
b. Is the pedigree close enough to ensure
that what I see is what I get, but not so close that I may get
problems?
c. What kind of show records did each ancestor
have?
4. Health.
a. Are there any hereditary problems in the
background of the dog?
b. How many generations of his ancestors are
available for me to see and go over with my hands.
c. How long have the ancestors lived? How
fertile was each and every ancestor?
d. Has he and his ancestors been xrayed for
hip dysplasia, checked for patellar luxation, and examined for PRA and
lens luxation?
e. Has the dog been tested for brucellosis
and other venereal diseases?
f. Have any of his ancestors been allergic,
or had skin problems?
For these reasons and many others, breeders almost never use a pet
dog
belonging to an individual. No matter how beautiful that dog may be, we
simply cannot ever have the necessary information about him. Remember
that
a good breeder is responsible for each and every puppy we breed for the
rest of its life, so we are not going to take any chances on what we
bring
into the world.
If you want to breed your dog, you would have to purchase your own
female.
Breeding these two without any information about their background would
be a "crapshoot" at best. Another consideration is that a dog which is
used at stud often becomes more aggressive and territorial, and may
begin
marking your house. Instead of a well behaved pet, you now own a sex
maniac.
My advice would be to neuter your pet dog, especially since a dog as
large
as you describe is already "out of specs."
Catherine
I intend to buy a dog this spring and I have not
decided
yet which breed I will get. I have read a bit on Lasa Apso. Would you
kindly
tell me if the majority of those dogs enjoy a good walk. I am used to
have
a large dog and I was wondering if being a small dog they still can
have
an 1/2 hour walk without being too tired? I hear that the Lasa do not
shed
is it true. Thank you for your help
Michelle Horan
Dear Michelle,
Lhasas used to accompany the Tibetan nomads across hundreds of miles
of difficult terrain. If you raise them to enjoy a walk, they will. All
dogs shed, just like all people do. Most dogs shed their hairs after
they
reach a few inches in length, but a Lhasa may keep its hairs until they
reach as much as 18 inches. This means that the hair is shed much less
frequently, but all hairs eventually go dormant and are shed - dogs,
people,
all mammals.
Cathy
Hello, I am looking for a small-medium breed of
dog
for my family. I have three children ages 2,4,and 6. Obliviously, the
dog
needs to be somewhat tolerant and playful. Do Lhasas blend well with
children?
I have read conflicting information and would like to get a clear
response.
The priority for me is to find a compatible breed of dog for us. I am a
homemaker and most of my time is spent at home. I am gone collectively
throughout the day about 3 to 4 hours. Some of that time the dog may
ride
with me because I am just dropping children at practice or school of
some
kind. This is a little bit of a background of what home life would be
for
a Lhasa, would this breed work well within it?
Sincerely, Julie
Dear Julie,
You have to understand what Lhasa Apsos are. The Lhasa is a primitive
breed, kept by the nomads of central Asia. Tibet was not settled into
towns
until the 7th century. This is a wild place, and the domestic animals
are
still half-wild. Lhasas were first introduced to the West about 70
years
ago. They are actually working dogs, like a Doberman. They were bred to
be watch dogs. This means they are intensely territorial, and very
discriminating
- loyal to their "pack" and suspicious if not hostile to members of
"foreign
packs". You see this in wolves, who will kill a strange wolf if it
ventures
into their pack's territory.
Because of their strong pack instincts, they are also very "rank
conscious"
A Lhasa always wants to know precisely where he fits into the rank
order
of his pack - (your family). Rank is established experimentally through
attempts at domination. If the human successfully dominates the Lhasa,
the Lhasa will respect and defer to him. If not, the Lhasa will be
aggressive
if and when that person crosses him.
Busy moms may not have the time to realize what is going on in the
dog's
head, and may miss the opportunity to train the animal. Lhasas are very
intelligent, and independent, and if they are not trained they simply
assume
they are in charge. Small kids may be considered to be the dog's pack
inferiors,
especially if the dog is able to frighten them at the very beginning. A
Lhasa will usually not challenge a kid over 6, which is why I usually
insist
children be 6 or more before I sell a dog to that family. It just isn't
fair to the dog or the kids to create a situation with built-in
difficulties.
And of course the neighbor children may be considered to be
members
of a foreign pack, and treated accordingly. Thus, a Lhasa may be very
protective
and tolerant of the kids in its own family, if the kids and dog have
learned
their respective places, but you may still have a problem in getting a
Lhasa to accept your children's friends.
There are individual Lhasas who love kids. I had a young male who
adored
little ones 0 to 6, but he was unusual. If the animal is true to its
heritage,
it is a stubborn, loyal, independent, social climbing, alert,
suspicious,
watchdog. When you have a well socialized and well trained one, they
are
wonderful. If you have one who was left to train himself, it can be
your
worst nightmare.
There are less complicated breeds, but all dogs need training, and
you
have to have the time and knowledge to do it. No animal, despite all
the
Lassie stories in the world, is completely reliable with small kids. I
would wait a few years if I were you.
Catherine
I am thinking of buying a lhasa apso, but am
unsure
of the living conditions suitable for him. I live in a one bedroom
apartment
and work 12-hour shifts three days a week. how are they alone for that
amount of time at one period? and i was also told that instead of
buying
from the classified, it would be best to buy from a certified breeder
and
buy a puppy that is not of show quality?
Heidi
Dear Heidi,
Leaving a dog alone for 12 hours at a time is an invitation to bad
habits . Such an animal is likely to become dirty or destructive,
unless
placed in a crate while you are gone. Dogs sleep quite a lot, so the
crate
is not such a hardship for an adult, already socialized dog.
However, for a puppy, this type of childhood is disastrous. Dogs
are
social animals. Puppies need the company of other creatures in order to
develop mentally. You have to think of the puppy exactly as you would a
child. Would you leave a small child alone for 12 hours, 3 times a
week,
confined to a small area, even if you knew the child would be perfectly
safe?
Most ethical hobby breeders would not sell you a puppy under the
circumstances
you describe. Not because they disapprove, but because they know what
trouble
and neurotic behavior will result from such an upbringing. An
adult
dog is your best bet, though even adults have an inborn need for
company.
The dog may be lonely, but if it was raised normally, it will be able
to
tolerate periods of isolation.
As for where to find a dog, There are no such things as "certified
breeders",
unless you mean commercial puppy mills, which may have some type of
Dept.
of Agriculture certificates. Stay away from this kind of "certified"
breeder.
The Hobby breeders, people like myself, who have bred and shown our
dogs
for most of our lives have no such certificates.
Be very wary of people who have "show puppies". After breeding
these
dogs for 25 years, I still cannot tell if a puppy will be show material
until it is at least 6 to 10 months old. Even then I'm often wrong.
You will have to be the judge of whether you really need a dog
under
your present circumstances, Just remember that a puppy's needs for
social
interaction are very much the same as those of a small child - perhaps
even greater, because canines have such a strong "pack" behavior
"hard-wired"
in their brains. I know you will come to the right decision for you.
Cathy
Hi! I decided to check out web pages on Lhasas since my Mom's
lhasa,
Teddy, has recently had to have back surgery. My parents recently got
back
just in time from a vacation to find that Teddy was having what seemed
to be small convulsions. My parents immediately took him to our vet and
found out that he had some kind of neurological problem with his back.
Well, unfortunately, they did have to operate. Apparently, as the
doctor
said, it was something natural amongst dogs that have long backs and
short
legs. He said that in all the time he has been a doctor that he has
done
at least 1,000 of these operations and that it was highly typical
amongst
dogs with long backs and short legs. My question is if you find this a
lot amongst lhasas?
We adopted Teddy almost a year ago at the age of 2-3 yrs (his
age
we arent exactly sure on) from a friend of mine. She found Teddy
through
a lhasa rescue that she called where they told her at what pound she
could
get Teddy. Anyways like I asked before...is this common amongst lhasas?
Ellen
Dear Ellen,
I have heard of Lhasas with herniated disk disease, but not any
recently
in the show community. One reason for this is that responsible
show-hobby
breeders are very careful NOT to breed any dogs from pedigrees where
this
problem has occurred. The Lhasa is only long backed in relation to its
leg length. It does not have a long back in proportion to its head and
neck and muscular structure. It only has slightly shortened legs.
Greyhounds,
for instance, are also relatively long backed, but because of the
arched
structure of their backs and their fantastic musculature, almost never
have back problems. The problem is not the length of the back, but the
bony structure and the muscles supporting it.
One of the factors that seems to be associated with back problems
is
a hollow, or sway back. In the original 1901 description of the Lhasa
we
find the words " All the best specimens have a slight arch at the
loin
and the back should not be too short; it should be considerably longer
than the height at the withers. The dog should be well ribbed up, with
a strong loin and well developed quarters and thighs." What this
is
saying is that the back, though long, is strong because of a slight
"keystone"
arch, a long supportive ribcage, and very strong muscle development.
Some
Lhasas today have a tipped up pelvis and a hollowed back , combined
with
poor musculature. I believe this type of back is structurally unsound,
and I have avoided it in my dogs. Perhaps this is why I have never had
a dog with back problems, despite the fact that my dogs average 35% to
45% longer than tall.
Your poor little Teddy came from a shelter, and you have no way of
knowing
what problems he inherited. This points out one of the main reasons to
buy a healthy dog from an experienced hobby breeder. You know what you
are getting, and you have someone to advise you in case of trouble. It
is wonderful that people rescue unwanted pets and give them loving
homes,
but it is often heartbreaking and expensive - as your parents have
found
out. I hope Teddy gets well and lives a long and happy life, but next
time,
get your dog from a breeder.
Cathy
We just bought a Lhasa Apso about 5 days ago. Her
name
is Chloey and she's obviously beautiful. My question is the people
before
us that had her cut her hair short in the face and under the legs, and
I was wondering how long it would take for it to grow back? We haven't
been able to find an answer at all on the web. If you have a response ,
I would appreciate it very much.
Thank you, Nick
Hello Nick,
Hair on dogs, just like people, grows at the rate of 0.5 to 0.75 inches
a month. It takes a Lhasa approximately 2 years to develop a long coat,
and some even longer. We consider a Lhasa to be fully coated at about
3.
So your dog will have some respectable whiskers in about 6 months, and
a nice beard at 1 year from now.
Catherine
I was wondering if anyone knows about how to treat chronic skin
problems
in a Lhasa. My Lhasa is only going on 4 and for about the last year and
a half he has had a constant skin problem under his arms, between his
toes,
around his mouth and ocassionally it appears on his back. The Animal
Hospital
I take him to has had him on one antibotic after another, different
shampoos,
different diets, nothing works. I'm at my wits end. The odor is gagging
and he cries alot. If anyone has any advice or knows where I can get
some
I would appreciate it.
Sincerely, Teresa
Dear Teresa,
I really can't give any advice except to go back to the Vet.
I have no experience with skin problems. I have heard of lines
which
have hereditary allergic skin conditions, such as Sebaceous Adenitis,
but
there are food allergies, flea allergies, fungus and mite infestations,
and bacterial infections, as well.. Unless you have a medical
diagnosis,
it is impossible to know how to treat it. Please read the articles on
skin
in the health section.
Catherine
Dear Cathy
would like to respond to Theresa if I may, regarding her Lhasa's skin
problem. I too have a 4 year old and for the last year and a half or so
she has had skin eruptions. I call them "pimples" . She gets a bump,
then
it festers and scabs over and leaves flakes when it is healing. After
umpteen
visits to our vet and many doses of antibiotics with little or no
result,
I delved into my many dog books and came up with the following. Her
hair
was to the floor, so I cut it for the summer, left a skirt, but not
long.
Then I began using HyLyte Shampoo for dogs that is for skin disorders,
bacterial problems, etc. and I bought from my vet some oatmeal creme
rinse.
Also, after drying her and combing out I would dab just a bit of pure
aloe
vera gel on each sore, rubbing it in really good. (I also tried to
bathe
her in the heat of the day so she could dry outside while I brushed
her,
the hairdryer tends to dry their skin out) At first I bathed her once a
week, now it's every 3 weeks and her skin has improved immensely, with
only one or two bumps now and then.
"Anne Baker" <r18550@email.sps.mot.com>
Dear Cathy,
I have two adorable Lhasas - Fraiser and Lilith, which I have had
almost two years now. To this day Frasier will still have an occasional
"accident". But Lily never does...and this is why. When Lily went into
her first heat we put a baby pamper on her. This helped in two
respects:
the obvious - so she wouldn't mess up anywhere, and secondly it kept
Frasier
away. Once and only once did she wet in it and she went absolutely
nuts.
But it cured the problem. Now I never have to worry about her no matter
where she is - pamper on or not!
I just figured this might be helpful with anyone who's having
trouble
house breaking there female Lhasas.
Regards, Christine McPheator
Thanks, Christine
I came across your page while searching for Lhasa
Apso.
I have consecutively owned two Lhasa's (one for 18 years, one for 16).
These are such lively, affection companions. Unfortunately, mine passed
away in November (I swear my heart is still broken). I am finally in
the
mood to investigate a new baby (Llahsa). I happened to spot one at a
pet
store, Critters, in Boise, Idaho. She's a beautiful little white bundle
of fur with blue eyes, and a light brown nose. Recently there have been
numerous articles on purchasing only from reputable breeders. Do you
have
any recommendations or facts that I should be aware of prior to
purchase.
I'm considering breeding this beautiful breed as well. Any suggestions?
I live in Boise, Idaho. Do you have any breeders in my area that I
might
investigate? All I know about this cute little puppy is that she is
from
Kansas.
Thanks,Shelli
Dear Shelli,
The pet shop puppy you have looked at was undoubtedly commercially
bred in a puppy farm in Kansas. The only consideration these breeders
have
is profit. They do not research pedigrees for inherited problems.
They obviously do not care whether their Apsos look the part. ( The
standard
specifies dark brown eyes and a black nose). They do not care
about
temperament, coat quality, allergies or other congenital diseases, -
anything
except getting that pup to market, just like a chicken or pig.
I have attached a list of American Lhasa Apso Club breeders in
Idaho
and the surrounding areas. I hope this is helpful in making your
choice.
Catherine
I am new to the internet and in a Lhasa search
found
you. I was very interested in all the letters from other Lhasa owners.
Spike is 15 years old now and has been a very important part of my life
for the last 13 years. Before the age of two Spike had already had 3
owners
and had been abused by the first owner. Poor Spike had a very hard
first
year with me as he had never had his shots nor been checked for worms.
He also was very shaggy as he had not been groomed properly and had
developed
and eye infection.
We got through that first year and and thirteen more. He is the
pet
of the neighborhood and though some neighbors may not know my name,
they
all know Spike, as he loves all children and old people. For several
years
Spike and I went to the childrens hopsital every week to visit the
children
and he and they both loved it. Now Spike is getting older and had a
kidney
problem.
I found that when I had my brother living here for a few months
(with
his cat), Spike really became very active and playful. So when he left
I got a Kitty for Spike. Spike and Tuxedo are great buddies at all
times
except meal time. Tuxedo likes to eat Spike's food but Spike has gotten
aggressive and stands his ground. I would like to hear from other Lhasa
owners . Please write and tell me about your pets.
Barbara PetLover@prodigy.net
It's great to hear about a "Spike" who has such a beautiful
relationship
with his human world. I think Barbara would like to hear from
other
Lhasa owners.
Hi,
I have just purchased a second Lhasa Apso. We thought we would get
a companion for our first. Carmen is 2 l/2 years old and a really sweet
natured Lhasa. The new addition, Mugsey, is now 3 months. We got her at
10 weeks. She is really cute but far more agressive than Carmen. It is
starting to look like she is going to dominate the older dog. What is
the
best way for us to handle this. Should we let them fight it out or
should
we try and help the older one be boss.
Kit
Dear "Kit",
Dominance is dictated by many factors, not least of which is the
genetic
temperament of the animal. It sounds like the puppy is just one of
those
dominant personalities. There is absolutely nothing you can do to make
her less dominant, or make your older one more so. They are what God
made
them. You had best let them work it out between themselves. Since your
older one seems to be submissive, the younger one will probably
eventually
become the leader and boss dog. In the short term, the little one
will successfully bully the big, easy-going one until she has had
enough.
Then the big one will remind the little one of their size and age
difference.
If you let them come to their own understanding, they will eventually
work
it out.
Catherine
Dear Cathy,
I have a problem dog who blows her coat EVERY time she goes into
heat! Cookie should be a champion by now (according to breeders and
judges
who know her), but I am new at this and do not know any methods to help
prevent this. Cookie loves to show and actually smiles the whole time
she
is in the ring. Judges and everyone who meets her loves her. My
daughter,
11, has shown her for 2 years now and they have done quite well for
beginners.
Do you know any vitamins that might help this problem? I recently have
started feeding both Lhasas Dog Bloom, but don't know whether this will
help.
Thanks, Gail
Dear Gail,
Blowing coat after a season is normal. Some bitches seem to do this
more than others, but almost all bitches lose some coat after their
seasons.
Only the very heavy coated ones - that have so much coat that you don't
miss what is lost, look the same all the time. Hair growth and loss in
under hormonal control. Women often lose a lot of hair during
pregnancy,
and certainly after menopause. The treatment for bitches is spaying.
But
then you can't breed or show them. That's why there are so many male
specials
as opposed to bitches. Can't fight Mother Nature!
I have two bitches that had to be stripped in order to show them.
These
two have so much hair - enough for four dogs each. They always looked
best
AFTER a season - then they had lost enough that you can make out a dog
under all that hair! I guess the answer again is genetics - breed into
a line whose bitches tend to be densely coated, and who throw a minimum
of coat with their seasons.
When I first started in dogs, I tried fighting with Mother
Genetics,
looking for something I could DO to make the dogs better in some
respect.
At this point I have reconciled myself to the fact that SHE is in
charge,
and if I want something changed, I have to breed it!
Good luck, Cathy
Dear Ms. Apso,
We recently adopted a Lhasa from the humane society. We know
almost
nothing about her history, accept what we have learned since she came
home
to us. She has become very attatched to my 6yr. old daughter. She seems
to think that her bed is with my daughter. The problem is that our
other
dog, a shepherd mix has been sleeping with my daughter for the last
year
and our new family member "Shelby" is unwilling to share the room. I
tried
to remove Shelby from my daughters bed and she make it quite clear that
she intended to Stay! How can I fix this without her thinking that Im
the
Bad new Owner? Thank you for any help you may be able to provide.
Cathy
Dear Cathy,
Take the Shepherd to bed with you. You will never succeed in evicting
a Lhasa from it's designated bed. This is one area where we will not
compromise!
Abby
Dear Ms. Apso,
My experience has been with owning a Lhasa as a companion around
the home for my wife and I. My original Lhasa whose now gone, I will
call
Tuffy, was a registered purebed. He passed on two years ago and I swore
I would not go through that again, but the loss was too great.
Beauregard
Kensington III soon made an appearance at our home, Nicknamed
"Bo".
I really missed what I call the Lhasa flop, (Laying on the floor with
hindquarters
spead eagled), watching whatever was going on through sleepy eyes, but
not only did Tuffy do that Bo does the same. They are one of the nicest
animals that a dog owner can ever have. Our Lhasa's have been
helpful
in many ways and they have paid their way many times over. Our
experience
with their little problems have all been overcome with loving and
veterinary
care. Thank you for the chance to express this. I will never be without
a Lhasa.
Don
Dear Don,
Thank you for sharing your evident love for the breed. May you
always have a beautiful Lhasa for a friend.
Abby
Dear Dr. Apso
My husband and I have recently been purchased by a 14 week old
Lhasa
female. Gidget stole our hearts and now lives with us, the 3 year old
cat,
and two birds. I am surpised at Gidget's abilities. She was housebroken
in less than a week and is very smart. (don't we all say that??) But I
was under the impression that Cairn's took the cake when it came to
being
bull headed. I was WRONG. This is one stubborn girl. One example is
Gidget
will walk on a lead only on grass. Seriously, she flatly refuses to
walk
on cement or gravel, she will lay down and refuse to move....any
suggestions?
help...
Debb
Dear Debb,
We Lhasas are highly intelligent and very manipulative. We believe
in training our human pets from the very beginning. We remember
everything
- especially unpleasant things, and we vow immediately never to repeat
the experience!
If your girl is a gourmand, perhaps she will walk for food. A
cousin
of mine had to be persuaded with food. After a few days she took one
step,
for which she was rewarded with a piece of liver. The next day she took
two steps. This went on for a month. After she got to 30 steps, she
finally
agreed to walk, but she still expects a reward when she comes home.
Cathy
thanks you for your comments on our page. It was my idea you know!
Abby
Hi!
We are looking for a small dog to live with us in an apt. in
Cambridge
and have been told about l.a.'s as great dogs. We're wondering whether
they're high maintenance in terms of grooming or other aspects? Thanks
for your tips. Much thanks.
Catherine
Dear Catherine,
Lhasa Apsos are the ultimate pet. However it is often uncertain who
is the pet and who is the master.
I once gave a female puppy, 5 months old, to a friend of my
mother.
She was a nurse, and her husband was a chemical engineer. Her two boys
were Princeton University students at the time. When I went to visit
the
puppy some 9 months later, she greeted me pleasantly, and placed a toy
beside me. I was immediately warned not to touch her toy, because she
would
bite me if I did. On further questioning I was told they were not
allowed
to touch her bed, her toys, her food dish, (unless it was empty) etc.
But
if they observed her restrictions, she was perfectly affable. I told
the
family how amazing it was that a small dog managed to train 4
University
educated humans, in the space of only a few months. She evidently so
enjoyed
her power, she believed that training of humans should commence
immediately
whenever she encountered a new one.
The moral of this story is that you have a limited time in which
to
teach your little friend who is who. Once the opportunity is missed,
you
can have a little tyrant on your hands. However, because of their
independent
and unique intelligence, once you have been owned by a good Lhasa Apso,
any other breed of dog is "just a dog". When compared with the
pyschological
aspects of raising an Apso, maintenence is a minor consideration,
provided
you get one with a proper hard, straight coat. (Ask to see the adult
relatives.
Avoid the "ball of fluff" puppy in favor of one whose coat seems to lie
flat on the body)
Cathy
I have a Lhasa and she is 12 months I hve never shown her. I
dont
know if I really want to. She is sweet, gentle, great with children and
loving to everyone. I have read many articles that say just the
opposite
about lhasa's. Is she rare? I would like to get more info. I have
written
to the local Lhasa club but have never received any info. Please E Mail
with info. Thanks
Barb
Dear Barbara,
Properly reared Lhasas are sweet, gentle and good with children. The
problem with Lhasas is their intelligence, and their independence.
There
are quite a few Lhasas who are dominant personalities, who attempt to
achieve
alpha status in their pack. (the pack in this case is their human
family).
Combine this with an extreme awareness of strangers as a possible
threat,
and you have an animal which needs early and continued socialization
and
a firm hand. Many families are unable to provide that. Added is the
difficulty
of imagining that this precious little ball of fluff has the nature of
a rather primative guard dog, and must be raised with discipline. Of
course
there are those Lhasas who are naturally submissive and tractable, but
the majority are as the standard describes them, chary of strangers,
and
stubbornly willing to strive for pack boss status. This latter quality
makes it difficult to house a group of Lhasas together, as they are
competitive
and serious fights can occur.
You evidently have one of the submissive ones. I have had many of
these
over the years, usually males. These were dogs I could swing by the
tail
if I had a mind to, and the dog would have placidly accepted this
treatment.
I have also had the other kind, who are constantly testing me for
weakness,
and who have to be reminded of their place on a regular basis.
I hope this answers your question. Lhasas are very complicated
creatures,
and have as much variation in character as humans do.
Catherine
Dear Ms. Apso,
Please guide me on how to locate someone who would be interested
in providing stud service to our 18 month old female Lhasa. My
female
Lhasa is presently in Miami Beach for the winter, and most likely will
be bred in Florida. I am, however, currently in New Jersey and if
I happen to stay here through the winter she will be back up here for
the
spring and summer (what a lucky dog).
Thanks for any help that you can give me.
Elia
I have a male in NJ, but I normally have to know a great
deal
about a bitch before using my male on her. I have to
research
her pedigree. She has to be tested for brucellosis,
Her
vaccinations have to be up to date. She has to be x-rayed
for
hip dysplasia, and patella luxation, and her eyes examined for
PRA.
All of these things should be performed to make sure that we are not
creating
substandard puppies.
Breeders are very choosey about the animals they use to
perpetuate
the breed. Our decisions are based on a number of
considerations:
1. The Breeder of the animal in question.
a. Has the breeder of that dog had a long record as a
breeder
of exceptional dogs?
b. How does he/she go about selecting dogs to be bred?
c. Can I visit this breeder and go over a number of representative
dogs from the same family?
2. The Dog.
a. Is he/she the epitome of the breed as I see it?
Most
breeders want a male that weighs from 14 to 18
lbs, and stands from 10 to 11 inches at the top of the
shoulder,
and a female slightly smaller. We do not want a massive, heavy boned
dog,
an atypically large dog, or a very fine, toyish dog.
b. Does he/she have the correct temperament?
c. Does he/she have the correct movement?
d. Does he /shehave a good quality, fast growing, easily groomed coat?
e. Is his/her conformation ideal in all respects?
f. Has this dog/bitch demonstrated ability to produce
excellent
puppies?
3. The Pedigree.
a. Is that pedigree consonant with the pedigree of my
dog/bitch?
Some families have characteristics that I do not want in my dogs.
Some families have characteristics that my animal lacks.
b. Is the pedigree well known enough to ensure that what I see is what
I get, but not so close that I may get problems?
c. What kind of show records did each ancestor have?
4. Health.
a. Are there any hereditary problems in the background of
the
animal?
b. How many generations of his ancestors are available for me to see
and go
over with my hands.
c. How long have the ancestors lived? How fertile was each and every
ancestor?
d. Has he and his ancestors been x-rayed for hip dysplasia, checked
for
patellar luxation, and examined for PRA and lens luxation?
e. Has the aanimal been tested for brucellosis and other venereal
diseases?
f. Have any of his ancestors been allergic, or had skin problems?
For these reasons and many others, breeders almost never breed to
a pet dog or bitch belonging to an individual. No matter how
beautiful
that animal may be, we simply cannot ever have the necessary
information
about him. Remember that a good breeder is responsible for each
and
every puppy we breed for the rest of its life, so we are
not
going to take any chances on what we bring into the world.
Secondly, I have to know why you want to breed your pet, and
to
be quite sure you understand everything you will have to do in
order
to care for the bitch and her pups, - the proper equipment
etc.
To properly rear a litter is expensive and time consuming.
Then I want to know how you mean to dispose of this litter,
ensuring
that each one of them is in a trustworthy home that will not, in turn,
breed them and contribute the pet overpopulation problem.
Finally, I want you to be sure that you understand what expenses
are
involved:
Stud fee
puppy pen
whelping box
sheepskins
heat lamp
surgical clamp
cloth diapers
prenatal vitamins
prenatal vet (x-rays, brucellosis test)
vet for litter (4 pups)
extra food |
$ 500
$ 200
$ 100
$ 50 (washable bedding)
$ 30
$ 25
$ 10
$ 10
$ 150
$ 240 (2 exams two shots each)
$ 40
---------------------------------
$1255 |
This is assuming a very uncomplicated delivery. If you
run
into trouble, it can cost another $500 for a c-section, and you
could
end up having to hand feed the litter (every 2 hours round the
clock).
Again, please read the article: http://www.lhasa-apso.org/articles/breeder.htm
Regards, Cathy
