You want me to do what? Put my dog in a cage? How cruel! No!

Done properly, crate training can be the answer to many problems faced by dogs and their owners. A crate is an indoor dog house, just big enough for the dog to stand up and lie down, turn around in, and is placed in a much used area of the house such as the living room or kitchen.

It can be made of plastic, wire, wood, or a combination of all three. It is a place for your dog to be when no one is around to make sure that he is staying out of trouble. It is the dog's "space" in the house. It is his bed and his sanctuary; it is HIS.

Why crate train?
Many people crate train their dog for the simple reason that the dog can do no wrong while he is in the crate. He can't piddle on the rug, bark at the mailman, chew on the furniture, or eat the kid's hamster. He sleeps. And, while he sleeps, the owners can go shopping, visit friends, run errands, or take in a movie and not have to worry about what kind of shape the house is going to be in when they get home. They put the dog in his crate, shut the door, and leave for a few hours, knowing that when they return it will be a happy dog/owner reunion, and not a one-sided yelling match with the dog cringing in the corner.

But what about exercise? Won't my dog be cramped in such small quarters?
No. Remember you won't be putting the dog in there forever. Four or five hours while you go shopping, or overnight so you can sleep without having to worry about what the dog is doing, is fine. For longer periods of time, the dog should be confined to a larger area, preferably a secure room in the house where he cannot chew furniture or electric cords, or a bigger dog can be put in a secure yard. Or, if you have a Harry Houdini type, perhaps a garage or basement, or a playpen with a top if your pet is a small dog.

Then, why crate train at all? Why can't I leave my dog in the yard or playpen all the time?
Because a dog is a social animal, as much and perhaps more so than we humans. They NEED to be in the house, even when you are not there or when you are sleeping and can't be interacting with them. They need to feel that they are part of the family, and that means being in the house, even though the family may not be in the house. Depriving the dog of that feeling of "belonging" and of being part of the family can do as much psychological damage as locking a child in the closet for most of the day. They become neurotic or psychotic. Problem barking, problem digging and constant fence jumping are just a few ways neurosis can manifest itself.

If all you want is a dog, then go ahead and leave him outside all the time, or lock him up in a room all the time. But, if what you had in mind was a companion and friend, let him in the house, let him belong. Besides, most dogs love their crates. It is THEIR space in the house. Wild dogs, coyotes and wolves all "den". This means they find a small cave, or dig one themselves, and this is where they sleep, rest and just "hang out". It is home.

Providing your dog with a crate satisfies his desire to den. No one is going to yell at him for doing something wrong; he can't do anything wrong while he is in his crate. No one is going to step on his tail, trip over him or pull on his ears. It is easier to teach small children to stay away from the dog while he is in his crate than it is to yell, "LEAVE THE DOG ALONE."

But won't he get terribly bored, being locked up?
No, he'll just go to sleep. A dog will sleep 18 hours a day if you let him. And remember, a dog's version of "recreation" while the owner is away often involves destroying the house, or chewing on electric cords and pulling things down on the floor. Also, it's not as if he must remain in his crate for the rest of his life. Just until he gets over the destructive period all dogs go through when they are young. Or, if it's an older dog in a new home, just until you, as the owner, feel safe leaving him alone in the house unconfined.

Many dogs form habits, such as house soiling, that can be easily broken by crate training. If a dog has formed the habit of urinating or defecating in the house wherever and whenever he feels like it, then crate training can teach the dog control. A normal, healthy dog will not urinate or defecate in his crate. To do so would mean he would have to lie in it. Most dogs prefer to wait until the owner returns to let them out to do this.

Perhaps I'll give it a try. Where can I get a Crate?
Some humane societies offer them at low cost. Pet Shops carry them. Try the newspapers. Crates aren't cheap and sometimes you can pick up one second-hand without having to put out a lot of money. Major department stores also carry them but you usually need to order them through their catalog, although this is also a less expensive way to purchase one. If you are strapped for time, get one from the pet shop. They usually have a variety of them on hand.

How much will a crate cost?
It depends on the size of the dog and where you purchase the crate. Just remember though, a crate is something a dog will have for the rest of his life. It's his bed, his room, his space in the house. A good crate will last much longer than the dog will, so don't worry about it wearing out! Also compare the initial cost of a crate with the cost of destructive behavior, or accidental injury of a dog that should have had the protection of a crate; i.e., travelling in a car unprotected. Shelling out $35 to $50 for a new crate is nothing compared to buying a new carpet, new furniture, replacing library books, repairing injuries, or explaining hamster heaven to the kids!

What size crate should I get?
Your dog's crate should be just big enough for him to stand up, lie down and turn around in..no bigger. The reason for this is so that he can't piddle in one corner and sleep in the opposite corner. This teaches the dog control.

What about puppies? I don't want to keep buying crates as the pup gets bigger.
Right. You should guesstimate what size your puppy will be as an adult dog and buy a crate that will be big enough for him as an adult dog. Then you put cardboard boxes in one end of the crate to make the crate smaller. As the puppy grows, you get smaller cardboard boxes and replace them accordingly. If you have an adult dog and are unsure as to what size to buy, you can take the dog to a pet shop and have him sized for his crate. Stand the dog next to a crate. The top of the crate should extend two to four inches above the dog's shoulders. The end of the crate should be about two inches from the dog's rump. Perfect fit.

What's the best kind of crate to buy?
Plastic is probably the best...although metal crates have the advantage of folding up for storage. Remember though, that a dog will want his crate door left open so he can go in and out as he pleases after he has outgrown the initial purpose of the crate. So the fact that metal crates can fold up when they're not in use may not be a good reason to purchase that kind of crate. Plastic is cleaned easier and doesn't squeak and rattle like metal does when the dog moves around inside. Metal crates can be noisy. You can make your own crate out of wood, but wood is difficult to keep clean and is heavier to move. Some brand names of plastic dog crates are: Vari-Kennel, Kennel Cab and Sky Kennel.

Once I have the crate, where do I put it?
The dog's crate should be placed in the most often-used room in the house, and it should stay there. The living room, the family room, the kitchen -- wherever the family spends the most time.

Okay, so now I have a crate. How do I make my dog like it?
At first, most dogs resent being confined. However, given some time to adjust, your dog will soon learn to love his crate and the security and privacy that goes with it. Let's say you have a new puppy. The puppy cannot be expected to go for long periods of time without having to relieve himself. The methods of crate training a puppy is as follows: Place a cardboard box or some material in the crate to allow the puppy only enough room to lie down and turn around. A blanket or towel can be placed in the remainder of the crate as the puppy's bed. Leave the crate door open so the pup has access to his bed and barricade an area right outside the crate door allowing for a "bathroom spot" outside of his crate. This is covered with newspapers or potty pad for easy cleanup. Make sure the barricade is sturdy enough to prevent the puppy from climbing out and relieving himself in an inappropriate spot. This "bathroom spot" needn't be a large area.. usually two feet square is plenty big enough. As the puppy approaches four months of age he can be expected to "hold it" longer. A four month old puppy can usually spend an entire night without having to relieve himself, as long as he did his business right before going to bed. At four months, you can begin shutting the door of his crate and leaving him for four hours at a time...but be sure he relieves himself before you shut him in. Most puppies that have had access to their crates from the beginning have no complaints. The first time they are shut in they may cry a little, but ignore them and soon they will give up and go to sleep.

DO NOT let the puppy out when he is crying!! If you do, you have just taught the puppy he can get his way by being vocal. Always wait until the puppy is quiet before you let him out of his crate. The exception is when you first get home after the puppy has been left in a crate for a while. The excitement of your return will probably make your puppy need to relieve himself and you should immediately go to his crate and let him out. Take him directly to his designated area and praise him wildly when he relieves himself there. The same would be true for the first thing in the morning. The puppy's crying probably means he needs to relieve himself, and he doesn't want to soil his sleeping quarters. Take him out immediately. Puppies five months old or older can be trained the same way as adult dogs.

Crate training the Adult Dog
Although crate training the adult dog is not as easy as with a little puppy, it can still be done with less hassle than would be expected. As mentioned earlier, most dogs resent being confined at first, but soon learn to love and enjoy the security their crate provides. Patience, persistence and a good set of ear plugs are the only requirements to begin crate training an adult dog. The first step is to let the dog investigate his new crate. Throw his toys in and then invite him to play. If your dog isn't interested in toys, try food. If he wants to eat, he'll have to enter the crate to dine, and don't ever give him his wonderful treats unless he goes in his crate first! Don't shut the door until he shows no fear of being inside. This can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few days.

The next step is to form a command that you will use consistently when you want the dog to enter the crate. "Bedtime", "Go to your crate", "In your house", will work fine. Use only one and use it consistently. Bring the dog over to his new crate, point inside and give the command. If he goes in, fine; shut the door. If he doesn't go in, then put him in and shut the door. DO NOT trick the dog into going in and then slam the door on him. This is not fair and will not build trust between the dog and the owner.

Use the command; if the dog refuses to go in, put him in. Close the door. Do not leave; stay there a few minutes. This is where the patience and ear plugs come in handy. The dog will probably cry, scream, yodel, yelp and bark to be let out. Don't give in. When he is quiet for a few minutes let him out. Praise him wildly. Give him a bite of something he loves to eat. And then repeat the command for him to go in his crate. This time he will probably take one look at you and try to head for the hills. Don't let him. Put him, push him in or shove him in but get him in that crate. Close the door. Keep repeating these steps until the dog will enter the crate on your command because he knows he has no other choice. Don't give up. This is where the persistence part comes in.

Crate training the adult dog can take anywhere from 30 minutes to a week. Just remember -- the more consistent, firm and unyielding to his complaints you are, the faster he will crate train. Now that he will enter his crate on your command, it's time to start leaving him for short periods of time while you remain in the house. Leave him for an hour or two inside his crate while you watch T.V. or clean the house. Let him feel secure that he will not be left in there forever, and that he will be let out eventually, and that you are not going to go away and forget about him. Once he feels secure in his crate, you can leave him for longer periods of time while you are away from the house. Always make sure he has gone to relieve himself before placing him in his crate.

It sounds like a crate is a pretty handy thing to have around. What are some of the other advantages to having a crate-trained dog -- besides the housebreaking part?
Well, a dog that feels secure in his crate is much easier to take on long trips than a dog that is left to jump excitedly around inside the car. And dogs being shipped via plane or train feel much more secure and can handle the stress of traveling much easier if they have their own crates to travel in. Crates take the worry out of leaving your dog in a motel or hotel while you see the sights -- the maid isn't apt to accidentally let the dog loose into the streets of a strange city if you leave your pet in his crate while you are away.

Okay. It sounds like crate training is an excellent idea. But tell me should everyone crate train their dog?
Not necessarily, but if you are considering crate training as a method of housebreaking, you should ask yourself these questions:

1. Do you find yourself constantly punishing your dog for the same misbehavior?

2. Is your dog spending more and more time penned up or outside and less and less time with the family because of destructive or uncontrollable behavior?

3. If you have children, are you afraid to leave the children and the dog alone in the same room together because the once-placid pet is now becoming snappish or too rough with the children or fear biting in the case of a toy dog when children get too rowdy?

4. Are you declining dinner invitations and only scheduling errands when you know someone else will be home to make sure the dog doesn't destroy the house or hurt himself while you are gone?

5. Are your dogs sitting freely in your car as you travel so that if you must put on the brakes quickly the dog can become a bullet and fly into the air, breaking his neck on the windshield or being seriously injured? Does it matter to you that we all use seat belts today and that your pet should also be secured?

6. Does your pet think his name is "Bad Dog"?

If you answered "yes" to any of these questions, then perhaps you should think more seriously about crate training. Even if you have none of these problems, crate training is a nice thing to do for your pet, and a safe way for your pet to travel.

HELPING YOUR NEW DOG ADJUST TO YOUR HOME

1. Set up a schedule and follow it consistently. ALWAYS feed, walk, socialize, put out to make, etc., your dog at the same time. Like the rest of us, dogs feel much more comfortable if they know what to expect. Follow this schedule for at least 4 to 6 months, as it will take the dog some time to feel "at home".

2. Be consistent. Not just with the schedule, but with everything you do with your dog. Decide on the rules the dog will live by and then stick to those rules. Dogs learn much more quickly and behave much better if you are consistent in your actions and expectations. Consistency must start the minute you get the dog home. Everyone in the household needs to agree on the rules for the dog, how those rules will be taught and how they will be enforced. This means that you will need to be prepared for the dog BEFORE he comes home. Be fair to the dog -- don't get him on the spur of the moment. Be ready for him. Dogs don't just walk in the front door and say to themselves "Oh...there's the potty". They need to be trained where to relieve themselves even if they are already housebroken. A new house means new rules and you MUST TEACH HIM the rules.

3. Don't get angry. Anger doesn't teach -- it may be understood as a threat or a challenge by the dog. Either way, it doesn't lead to the desired response. Deal with disobedience by using quick, matter-of-fact corrections. Don't get your emotions involved. Many problem behaviors are not the result of the dog's attempt "to get even" but rather a result of being bored, lonesome, frightened or having learned to get attention by some undesirable means.

4. Pack leader. A leader is clear, concise, consistent. Dogs understand and need to have a pack leader. If you don't assert your right to that position the dog will naturally move into the leadership role. That means that the sofa is his, the garbage is his, the Thanksgiving turkey is his, and the new pair of shoes you just bought is his. In short, he is in control. Leaders don't come when called. Leaders may bark when and how long they want. Leaders may bite. Think about it..

Often common behavior problems are caused by the dog's assertion of leadership rights over at least some members of the family. If you are not familiar with "pack leadership" as it pertains to the family dog and training, read Is Herbert There? A Survival Guide for Pet Owners, by Animal Behavior Consultant, Terry Jester.

5. Enroll in Training Classes. Training classes help you communicate with your dog. Learning to obey when there are lots of other dogs and people around helps build confidence in both the dog and owner. Owners who work with their dogs find that the mental exercise is just as important as physical exercise for keeping the dog from becoming bored.

It is a proven fact that people who put in the effort to obedience train their dogs and maintain the training have fewer problems with their dogs. An added bonus is the working bond that develops between the dog and the owner when they spend time training together. Just because you own a small dog doesn't mean that obedience training is unnecessary. Do be sure that your instructor is mindful of the fact that you have a small dog and separates the classes by sizes or at least moves them separately in the classes until all the dogs are "under control".

6. Praise. Praise is the reward the dog receives for obeying your command. There are some simple rules for giving praise/rewards:

7. Be positive. Tell the dog what you want him to do instead of what you don't want. It is easier for the dog to understand one positive command (like "down") instead of a series of negative commands (don't chase the cat, don't jump off on the sofa, don't bark). Being positive enforces the idea that you are the leader because you give and enforce commands. Let him be a dog. Enjoy him, train him, have fun with him. Do not expect him to make decisions. That's your job -- you're the leader. Expect him to act like a dog -- nothing more, but certainly nothing less. Dogs are intelligent, energetic and very adaptable. Given the right training and being respected for the qualities that have made them "man's best friend" for thousands of years, dogs can become very good companions and valued members of the household. Without training, proper care, or an understanding of how dogs think, feel and react, these four-footed creatures can become problems to both owner and neighborhood, and not give the pleasure that good training can create.